You will not need a great deal of equipment to care for your
new kitten or cat, but the basics are included here; you will also need to buy
suitable food and water bowls for it. As time goes on, you may of course wish
to buy additional items, such as more toys. A huge range of these is now sold
in pet stores, from rubber balls to elaborate climbing frames, but your cat
will probably be just as happy to play with a ball of paper or with a length of
string pulled across the floor.
A BED
Provide a special bed for your kitten, and train it to sleep
there right from the start. Tempting though it may seem, you should discourage
the kitten from sleeping on your own beds, or you may end up with fleas in the
bedding. A small cardboard box with a side cut down for easy access will make
an ideal bed at first. Place this in a warm, draught-free spot, and add a soft
lining – such as a blanket or a cushion – on top of a layer of old newspapers.
As the kitten grows older you could make a more permanent
bed yourself from wood, or buy one made of wicker, fibreglass or fabric. The simplest
type of bed is open-topped, with a step in the side for an entrance. Alternatively,
you could buy or build a covered bed – complete with its own hood – which may
give your cat greater privacy if there is no convenient niche (such as under a
table or the stairs) to cover its sleeping quarters.
GROOMING TOOLS
A fairly stiff brush (preferably one with natural bristles)
is very useful for grooming any cat; for a longhair you will also need a metal
comb with wide spacing between the teeth and a pair of round-ended scissors to
cut through tangled fur. A fine-toothed flea comb is helpful when checking for
fleas and for more thorough grooming. You can use cotton buds for gently
cleaning the outer part of your cat’s ears, but never poke these down the ear
canals. A pair of special claw clippers completes the essential feline manicure
set.
A COLLAR OR HARNESS
Your cat should wear a collar fitted with an identification
disc or tube, but the collar must be elasticated in case it should become
caught: for example, on a branch when the cat is climbing a tree. Some owners
train their cats to go for walks on a harness and lead – Siamese cats in
particular often take readily to the experience. If you wish to do this, go out
only in your garden at first until your cat is familiar with the harness. Never
exercise it in places where dogs may be about because they may be tempted to
chase it, and trying to restrain a frightened cat under these circumstances
will be very difficult.
TOYS
There is now a vast range of toys for cats, making play even
more fun and providing exercise and stimulation, which are especially important
for a cat kept indoors most of or all the time. Many stuffed toys contain
catnip (Nepeta cataria). This herb – also called catmint – appeals to many
cats, inducing an apparent sense of well-being. You can also grow it in the
garden, where your cat will often visit the plant and sniff at the leaves. The effects
are temporary, and wear off within 15 minutes or so. Young kittens are less
affected by the scent of catnip than other cats.
Training your cat to walk on a lead may be useful if you
live in an urban area and it will not be allowed to roam freely outdoors.
Many cats will appreciate a covered bed, as it will give
them a greater sense of privacy and security, particularly in a very busy
household. Whatever type of bed you choose for your cat, it must be fully
washable.
Stuffed toys and rubber balls are always popular with cats
of all ages.
A SCRATCHING POST
Every cat has a biological need to scratch, which helps to
keep the claws in trim. It also serves to delineate a cat’s territory: other
cats will see the marks, and will also detect the scent – produced by glands
between the toes – that is deposited through scratching.
However, the value of a scratching post will be limited
unless you make a determined effort right from the start to train your car to
scratch on the post and nowhere else in the home (many cats will also do all
the scratching they wish on trees and fence-posts outdoors). If your cat takes
to scratching a particular piece of furniture, one way to deter it is to fix a
plastic sheet over the area. Cats do not like the feel of plastic, and so will
tend to leave the furniture alone. Rubbing the scratching post with catnip may
also encourage the cat to use it instead. Avoid using a carpet-covered post
(the ready-made types are often wound with sisal), or your kitten may see your
household carpet as a convenient extension of it.
A LITTER TRAY AND LITTER
You will need a litter tray when your kitten first comes to
live with you, and on any other occasion when it is confined indoors: for
example, if you keep it in at night. Choose a tray that is deep enough to hold
several inches of litter and sufficiently roomy for your cat to turn around in
easily. Position the tray in a quiet place, and well away from your cat’s food
and water bowls.
Various types of litter – including wood- and clay-based
materials – are now widely available. Avoid using garden soil because, although
it is cheap, it will stain your cat’s fur and is likely to re-appear in the
form of muddy paw marks all the way across your floor. Line the base of the
tray with sheets of old newspaper before pouring the litter on top, as this
will make the tray much easier for you to clean out.
Some cats are reluctant to go back to a used tray, but you
can remove just the soiled litter (special scoops are available for this)
rather than tipping away the entire contents each time. You should completely
empty the tray and clean it with hot water and veterinary disinfectant at least
once a week. Leave the tray to dry thoroughly before re-filling it with clean
litter. Dispose of soiled litter with your own garbage – not down the toilet,
as it could cause a blockage.
A CAT FLAP
Many cat owners fit a cat flap to an outside door or window.
Doing this will allow the cat to go in and out whenever it wishes, but take
care because some designs will also let other cats in. The flap must obviously
be low enough for your cat to use comfortably, and far enough from the door or
window handle to prevent a burglar from reaching inside and letting himself in.
A number of designs of cat flap are available. One type only
swings outwards and will not let the cat in again unless you train it to open
the flap by lifting it with a paw. Another has a ring of flexible plastic
triangles, with their points meeting at the centre, fixed around the rim of the
hole; in this case the cat simply has to part the triangles and push through
them. Electromagnetic and electronically operated cat flaps are also available
for a reasonable price. These will open only to the cat carrying a special
device attached to its collar, and are useful for preventing unwanted visits
from other cats in the neighbourhood.
Training a cat to use a cat flap is usually fairly
straightforward. Prop the flap open at first, using a pencil or piece of
adhesive tape, and call your cat through the opening, first from one side and
then from the other. When it is accustomed to this, gradually lower the door
until you can remove the prop altogether.
Using a cat flap for the first time can be a rather
unnerving experience for a young kitten. Prop the flap open to begin with, so
that the kitten can look through it and see what is on the other side.
Use a toy or some tasty food to encourage the kitten to walk
through the flap, and repeat this on either side of the door. Once the kitten
is confident, remove the prop and encourage the kitten through again. It will
soon start to use the flap on its own.
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